Pre-1970 homes, render, heritage and conservation areas are where painting gets specialist. Lead paint needs testing and containment; render needs a different system; heritage needs council approval. The edge cases worth a second opinion before you sign.
Most repaints are straightforward. A handful aren’t, and they’re the ones where the wrong painter
can make things genuinely worse. Pre-1970 homes, render, heritage and conservation areas, and metal
surfaces all need a specialist system and, sometimes, specialist permission. These are the edge cases
worth a second opinion before you sign.
Where painting becomes specialist work
Pre-1970 buildings (lead paint)
Lead paint needs a test, sealed-off work, and the right safety gear and waste handling. Dry sanding it is truly dangerous. A lead-safe method is a must, not an option.
Render or stucco surfaces
Different primer, different paint system. A painter who puts ordinary house paint on render gets about a year before it crazes.
Heritage / conservation area
Council pre-approval on exterior colours, and original-material matching for original finishes. Specialist work, the wrong painter makes it worse, not better.
Steel / metal surfaces
Rust treatment, etch primer, specific topcoats. The wrong system rusts through the new paint inside 18 months.
Dark-to-light colour change
Needs at least three coats, sometimes a tinted primer. A two-coat job won’t cover. Ask about coats explicitly.
Mould-prone surfaces
Bathrooms, laundries and north-facing inland walls need anti-microbial primer and a mould-resistant topcoat. Often skipped in cheap quotes.
Lead paint is the one not to gamble on
If your home predates 1970, assume lead is in the older layers until a test says otherwise.
Dry-sanding it releases dust that’s hazardous to everyone in the house, which is why lead-safe prep
(containment, correct PPE, proper disposal) is a real, costed step, not a line to skip. A quote that
treats a heritage repaint exactly like a new-build repaint hasn’t understood the job.
On a heritage or lead-paint home, the cheap quote isn’t just a worse finish, it can be a health
risk and a council problem. This is the job to price honestly.
Ask this, exactly
“My home is pre-1970, render, or in a heritage area. Have you done this exact kind of work?
How do you handle lead-safe prep? Can I see photos of a similar job?”
A specialist talks comfortably about testing, containment and the correct system. Vagueness here is a reason to get a second opinion before you commit.
What we do with the hard ones
Brushline handles lead-safe prep on pre-1970 homes, heritage colour matching and conservation-area
work, and the correct render and metal systems. We price these as the specialist jobs they are and
show you references before you commit, because on these homes, honesty about scope is the whole
point.
Common questions
How do I know if my house has lead paint?
Homes built before 1970 are likely to have lead-based paint in older layers. It can be confirmed with a test. Where lead is present, preparation must be done lead-safe, with containment, the correct PPE and proper disposal, because dry-sanding lead paint releases hazardous dust. This is specialist work, not a job to cut corners on.
Do heritage homes need a special painter?
Often, yes. Heritage and conservation-area work can require council pre-approval on exterior colours and original-material matching for original finishes, plus lead-safe handling on pre-1970 surfaces. It’s specialist work that should be priced honestly rather than treated as an ordinary repaint.
Can render be painted with normal house paint?
No. Render and stucco need a primer and paint system made for them. Ordinary house paint applied to render typically crazes within about a year. The correct system, with the right prep, is what makes it last.